FRANKEL STUDY CONFIRMS YOUNG MALES ARE BEYOND BUFF

New Trend in Youth Marketing - How young adult men are defying gender stereotypes in fashion and personal care

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Young Males Are Beyond Buff
How young adult men are defying gender
stereotypes in fashion and personal care

Chicago, IL -- September 18, 2002 -- According to a recent study conducted by Frankel, more than any other generation, todays young adults have shown a willingness to cross gender-based stereotypes. In the past, gender-bending was characterized as females emulating males to compete in a mans world by being more assertive, athletic, career-oriented, or business-formal. Society also accepted men openly expressing nurturing feelings and broader emotional sensibilities. As enlightened as weve slowly become, though, certain boundaries and biases have surely remained for both sexes. For society - and to a great degree in the minds of men, those boundaries have included full-time child-rearing, use of certain personal care potions and fashion accessories.

Until now.

Independent of sexual orientation, young men, in particular, are exhibiting increasingly gender-fluid" behaviors, clearly entering what was once characterized as women-only" territory. From family roles to personal appearance, fashion and shopping, young men are openly adopting female" sensibilities. In fact, many young men consider the adoption of some traditionally female attitudes and behaviors to be critical ingredients in evolving their total self-identity.

Evolving Family Roles
Our first example of gender fluidity is perhaps the tamest and most acknowledged of the lot. The Washington Post has observed, The proportion of couples in which the woman is chief breadwinner has been increasing so markedly that 1 in 3 working wives nationwide are now paid more than their husbands, compared with less than 1 in 3 in 1980." And men are much more comfortable with their wives job status, with strong agreement among young men doubling that of all other male age groups (24% and 13%, respectively).

Increasingly, young fathers, having chosen the primary caregiver role may work out of their homes, do shift work or work part-time, but their focus is decidedly on raising -- and caring for their children. Whether their choice makes more sense economically or emotionally, the evolving roles of husband and father now embrace more gender-neutral forms of nurturing.

Changing Fashion
While always important for and to men, fine attention to personal appeal, attractiveness and style have long been more stereotypically associated with women. But today, the young male preoccupation with personal image may be surprising. Sixty-two percent (62%) of young men said they would like others to see them as careful about their appearance" compared to 26% of women their age, and having a sense of style," compared to 21% of women their age.

But, whats interesting about young mens fashion tastes is a clear migration toward fashion with a feminine twist. Pant styles sold to young guys now include capris, clamdiggers, and chinos and jeans with decorative stitching. Footwear with more feminine design cues are in, too, and can be seen in the likes of sandals, summer loafers in light suede colors, slides, flip-flops, and clogs. Messenger bags, the male equivalent of purses are also popular. But, this trend also includes whats worn in private, as thong underwear is now making its way into young mens dresser drawers. Further, wearing the latest extends to accessorizing as well, with young men accenting fashion with jewelry, including a new trend hailing from Japan emphasizing mens fashion scarves.

While style has always been a moving target, young mens tastes and preferences are more dimensionalized than ever before -- blurring the norms of adornment -- and increasingly defying interpretation by way of gender.

Personal Care Or Beauty?
Even more intriguing is the introduction of masculine beauty" as gender fluidity stretches boundaries in personal care. While being attractive has always been important to young men, this notion is definitely taking on a new dimension. A third of males 16-24, say they are actively working to improve their self-image and effect" and improving the shape of their bodies," - drivers that are significantly higher than those of men 25 or older.

Major cosmetics companies have long offered male fragrance lines (Estee Lauder, Lancome) and brands like Clinique pioneered mens facial products. Compared to men 35+ though, young men 16-24 are now using decidedly more appearance-enhancing products such as eye gels, self-tanners, concealers, and a European favorite, tattoo-like eye liners.

And what about body hair? While long a sign of virility, young men are taking it off -- either by shaving their chests, legs, and even arms -- or using hair removal products like Nair, a brand long used by women that now offers Nair for Men."

Not surprisingly, what they do with the hair on their heads is changing as well. While older men have been coloring their hair for some time to maintain a youthful appearance, young men are broadening their use of styling by highlighting, coloring and creating other hair effects - from disheveled to deconstructed, long, braided, adorned, fully-shaved, or row-cut. Whatever the preference, mens hair coloring is one of the fastest growing segments in the hair care category. And, players like LOreal Color Spa for Men, Clairol Natural Instincts, and Feria Dyes for Guys are all experiencing dramatic growth with young male participants.

Actual quotes from the Frankel study:

·        I get highlights with every haircut which is about once a month. My stylist does it at her salon and I usually get blonde or platinum." Male 18

·        Ive had red streaks and blonde. I did it myself and bought the hair color at Sallys Beauty Supply." Male 22

·        My hair gel has to be LA Looks because it holds my hairstyle the best. Then I finish it off with Pantene hairspray because it gives my hair shine." Male 18

Pampered
Young men have discovered the joys of being pampered by experts, as well. Approximately 35% of US spa-goers are now men, getting services such as manicures, facials, eyebrow waxing, and other spa treatments traditionally considered for women only." Spas created exclusively for men have been a standard in Europe for years. But many, like The Grooming Lounge" in Washington, D.C. are opening in major US metro areas. These day spas now serve-up services traditionally associated with females, but with more masculine labels like Foot Treatment" and Sports Pedicure." They even offer specialized products like creams specifically formulated to dissolve love handles.

Actual quote from the Frankel study:

·        Ive had a manicure before at a salon in the mall, but I cant afford it regularly. I like to do it myself now." Male 18

Shopping Turns Social
Interestingly enough, shopping is often preferred as a social outlet. Much like women who have enjoyed social shopping for years, young men now even enjoy the browsing process. This could explain why Internet purchasing has not supplanted in-store sales among this Web-friendly age group. The personal interaction, multi-sensory experience and instant gratification of in-store purchasing are still preferred over any other channel. And, both males and females 16-24 are into companionship shopping to a much greater degree than any other age group, admitting they prefer to go shopping with friends."

Actual quote from the Frankel study:
·        I buy it at Wal-Mart and I shop with my mom or friends. I never shop alone." Male 18

·        I shop with my friends and when I buy jewelry, we all buy. I also have my tongue pierced." Male 18

Ed Razek, CMO of The Limited brands concurs: The whole idea of shopping in groups, making it a date, is transforming that mall experience that had become routine. Guys enjoy the experience of shopping with women. Its fun to watch them try things on." A full 40% wish they had even more time to shop for clothes.

As noted in the New York Times, Young men these days share with young women a heightened brand awareness, a tendency to buy on impulse and a predilection for clothes that are simpler, more close-fitting and sexier than in the past. ...They tend to view shopping as both a means to an end -- dressing appropriately, and stylishly, for dates or on the job -- and, increasingly, as an end in itself."

Women have ruled the shopping domain for years. Now, the impact of changing tastes among young males is clearly evolving fashion and shopping into more gender-neutral territory.

What Does Gender Fluidity Mean For Todays Marketers And Retailers?

As younger men engage in and enjoy shopping more, they're looking for more help and guidance. They appreciate and are influenced by attractive displays and like to lean on sales people or personal shoppers to help guide them through the fashion maze as they craft their look and heighten their physical appeal.
                                             16-24                                 25+

Ages:                                                 Males                                 Males

                                                             %                                         %

Important Shopping Attributes

     Attractive displays                         41                                         24

     Personnel know me and

     what I need/like                             35                                         26

Use a personal shopper at least

once a month                                     20                                         7

Marketers and retailers can help by orchestrating the right encounter, at the right place, with the right products for young adult men. While this generation is often allergic to many forms of marketing, young adults do like that marketing pays attention to them. But, how thats done is important. At the brand level, while young mens tastes are softening, they still want to be marketed to with a masculine sensibility. The new Express For Men, replacing the Structure brand is a good example of how at least one US clothing retailer is leveraging the sexier side of its house to deliver mens fashion within this sensibility.

Clearly, in-store elements can play an important role in winning them over, as well. Providing the benefit of a personal shopper is a big relationship management opportunuity, with the express purpose of assisting young men in finding and using the products they seek, but may be too reticent to openly express an interest in: Hair coloring, skin care products, appearance-enhancing cosmetics, and accessories. Permission cues" like displays that encourage and allow masculine beauty are on trend. And, the more appealing, engaging and instructional each can be, will likely increase their ability to be noticed and approached by young men.

The point is this, young males are primping, plucking, finessing, and enhancing their appearance in ways beyond being buff -- ways once solely owned by women. As young men continue to explore their expressions of self and blur traditional gender boundaries, marketers and retailers who are savvy and sensitive to these possibilities can give men permission to creatively explore their personal interpretations of attractiveness -- even beauty. Wherever or however gender fluidity is expressed, brands that recognize this behavior, encourage and facilitate it, will surely enjoy new marketing opportunities with todays young adults.

Built on a strategic sales promotion heritage, Frankel is the nations leading full-service marketing agency. Frankel delivers unique insights into consumer behavior that fuel impactful creative that drives results. Combined with its expertise in channel dynamics and co-marketing, Frankel strategically manages all brand contacts to create consumer action. Frankel is a wholly owned subsidiary of Paris-based Publicis S.A.

Sources:

Frankel FastForward knowledge base, Frankel Street Radar 2002; Amy Goldstein, Washington Post 2/29/2000; Yankelovich Monitor 2001; Perry Ellis 2001 Sales; Conde Nast Traveler 2002; AC Neilson 2001; Simmons Market Research Fall 2002; The Buzz" - Qualitative Interviews Among Young Men 2000; Shelly Branch, Wall Street Journal 7/12/02; Ruth La Ferla, Boys to Men: Fashion Pack Turns Younger." 7/14/02.