No model except a utility faucet will have hose threads on the end spout, and the ability to attach a hose will increase the usefulness of your sink.
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania (PRWEB) October 22, 2012
Free expert plumbing advice provided daily
Mr Rooter, the trusted Pittsburgh plumber
Installing A Utility Sink
Skill Level: Easy – Moderate
“Back in the days of my father and grandfather, utility sinks were cast from concrete, both single and double bowls,” says Bob Beall, entrepreneur and master plumber with the largest plumbing franchise in Northeast Ohio and Southwest Pennsylvania. Mr Rooter is the trusted plumbing service in Pittsburgh, offering free expert plumbing advice with trade secret tips daily. According to Beall, those old style utility sinks were very heavy. “Today’s sinks are made from plastic, and one person can install them without any problem.” There is one drawback, admits Beall, “their light weight makes them unstable so the smartest thing to do is to fasten the back vertical lip of the sink to the wall behind it.”
“Any faucet with a swinging spout and 1/2-inch shafts spaced on 4-inch centers will fit a utility sink,” says Beall. However, “no model except a utility faucet will have hose threads on the end spout, and the ability to attach a hose will increase the usefulness of your sink,” says Mr Rooter. Hose-bibbs with aerators are also available.
Mr Rooter Tip Of The Day
Tip #1 Start by flipping the sink upside down on the floor. Attach a short pipe with a gasket on the drain threads, but using a flexible trap adapter with a straight pipe will allow you to “cheat” a little if everything doesn’t fit perfectly.
Tip #2 Slip the four legs into their slots in the sink corners.
Tip #3 Then set them the final 1/2-inch with a rubber mallet. If they still have a tendency to fall out, pre-drill a hole and drive in a screw to lock the legs.
Tip #4 Typically, you’ll want to center the faucet on the sink. Look for pressed circles which designate the normal location of the faucet holes. Measure the center-to-center shaft distance, mark your hole locations.
Tip #5 Using a hole saw slightly larger than the faucet shanks, drill out the two shank holes.
Tip #6 If the faucet body has no gasket underneath, caulk around the holes, and around the edge of the faucet.
Tip #7 Set the faucet in the holes and, working from underneath, lock the faucet down with the two nuts supplied.
Tip #8 Attach flexible supply tubes to the faucet’s shanks, and connect the opposite ends to the stop valves under the sink.
Tip #9 Connect the tub drain to a P-trap and the P-trap to the house drain. If you are using a dual-tub sink, connect the two drains with the supplied drainpipes. Then add the tail piece and the P-trap.
TRADE SECRET: If you don’t need a flexible trap adapter, install a straight pipe with a gasket. Make sure to caulk around the holes, using a wet finger and use paper towels each time you use your finger to smooth, trying not to create air bubbles.
There’s A Reason They Call Us Mr.™
Debra Santavicca PR, SMM, WebIT
Mr. Rooter Media Center