Roughing in a toilet flange involves measuring for its location from the finished wall, cutting the hole for the toilet flange, and fastening the flange to the floor.
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania (PRWEB) June 18, 2012
“Roughing in a toilet flange involves measuring for its location from the finished wall, cutting the hole for the toilet flange, and fastening the flange to the floor,” according to Bob Beall, the most referred plumber in Southwest Pennsylvania and Northeast Ohio. Beall says, “The standard location of the center of the flange is a minimum of 12 inches from any finished wall.” Mr. Rooter Plumbing Pittsburgh and Youngstown offer emergency plumbing services to 3.5 million residential and commercial customers. With the NEW Mr. Rooter Media Center and LIVE chat, free daily tips and expert advice ared offered directly to the consumer.
“In addition,” Mr. Rooter says, “the bottom of the flange will have to be level with the finished floor.” If there is a plan in place to lay tile, shim the flange up by the combined thickness of the tile and mortar. According to Beall, start by locating the center-line of the flange, then measure and mark a point 12 inches from the bottom plate, plus the thickness of any finished wall that isn’t installed yet. This measurement will typically total 12 1/2 inches (assuming 1/2-inch drywall). “That mark represents the center of the hole for the flange pipe that goes through the floor. If the hole’s too small, the pipe won’t fit. If it’s too large, you won’t have any wood to hold the screws,” says Mr. Rooter.
Mr. Rooter’s Tip Of The Day
Tip #1 A CD is close to the proper diameter and makes an easy template. In fact, if using a 3-inch pipe flange (the most common), and the flange pipe bevels, the outside diameter where it meets the floor is about 4 3/4 inch-the diameter of a CD.
Tip #2 For flanges without a bevel, use the CD to make a reference circle, then center your flange inside that circle to mark the pipe diameter.
Tip #3 Drill a 3/8-inch hole with a twist drill so its edge falls just on the inside edge of the circle, then insert a rough-cut jigsaw blade and carefully cut the circle out, turning the saw constantly to keep the blade on the line.
Tip #4 Insert the flange to verify the proper hole diameter. Orient the flange so the horseshoe-shaped cutouts on each side are at dead center–each 12 1/2 inch from the wall behind the toilet. Holding the flange in place, mark the location of the flange screws.
Tip #5 Don’t use the arced cutouts on the flange; they can allow the bowl hold-down bolts to spin when you try to remove them at some later date. Remove the flange and, using a drill bit about half the diameter of a #12 by 1 1/2-inch flat-head wood screw, predrill the holes at the marks.
Tip #6 Pre-drilling makes driving the screws easier and keeps the wood from splitting. Line up the flange so the mounting holes match with the bowl hold-down slots parallel to the back wall, and drive in the screws with a cordless drill.
Tip #7 Install any remaining fixtures and the finished wall and floor. Rather than sliding the bowl hold-down bolts into their slots and having them fall over as you try and drop the bowl on the flange, keep them vertical with a washer and nut.
Tip #8 Mount the toilet.
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