The pedestal sink basin will attach to the wall and the support cleat in one of three ways: It will hang on a bracket attached to the cleat, it will be fastened to the cleat with hanger bolts, or it will use both.
Pittsburgh, PA (PRWEB) February 13, 2013
With its slender stem supporting a basin, a pedestal sink looks elegant to most people. “What’s more, a pedestal sink can make a small space bigger, especially in a bathroom that previously housed a vanity,” says Bob Beall. Beall, president of Mr Rooter Plumbing Pittsburgh Youngstown Dayton believes that not every plumbing need, needs a plumber.
“On the downside, when you install a pedestal sink, you’ll generally lose storage space,” says the most referred Pittsburgh plumber. “A pedestal sink is more complicated to install than it looks: You need to remove the wall covering to install a cleat to support the sink.” According to Beall, a pedestal sink is basically a wall-mount sink. “All the pedestal does,” says Mr Rooter, “is partially obscure the waste line and trap – and look good.”
Contrary to the “beauty” shots in plumbing catalogs, most pedestal sinks do not eliminate having to look at plumbing lines. (The catalog shots are photographed in a studio; the fixtures are never hooked up.) The supply lines on a pedestal sink that’s actually installed are connected to shut-off valves typically located on both exterior sides of the pedestal – they’re often highly visible, hard to keep clean and become a very costly feature so they are aesthetically appealing to the homeowner.
Mr Rooter Tip Of The Day
Tip #1 If the old sink wasn’t wall-mounted, it will be necessary to remove the wall covering, install a cleat, and replace the wall covering. This method is referred to as “notching the studs”, and directions will come with the pedestal sink unit detailing where to locate the cleat. Measure up the recommended distance and cut partially through the wall studs. Then knock out the waste with a hammer and clean up the notches with a chisel as needed,.
Tip #2 Cut a brace (typically a 2×6 or 2×8) to fit between the studs. Attach the brace securely to the wall studs with nails or, better yet, screws. TRADE SECRET: In some cases, it will be necessary to re-plumb the supply and waste lines before replacing the wall covering.
Tip #3 With the brace in place, reinstall the wall covering. Measure carefully and cut a piece of drywall to fit. Measure and lay out holes for the supply and waste lines, and cut these with a drywall saw or hole saw. Position the drywall on the wall and secure to the studs with drywall screws or nails.
Tip #4 Locate the centerline of the sink. Then use a framing square to transfer the centerline onto the floor where the pedestal will stand.
Tip #5 Now carefully set the pedestal on the floor the recommended distance from the wall so it’s centered on the centerline that was marked on the floor.
Tip #6 Now lift the sink into position and slowly lower it onto the pedestal. Adjust the sink as needed from side to side so it rests firmly on the pedestal. Adjust the pedestal location as needed – just be sure to keep it centered on the centerline.
Tip #7 Next, check to make sure the sink is level. If necessary, shim the pedestal sink. Shimming the pedestal sink will be noticeable. BONUS TIP: Apply self-adhesive rubber gasket material between the top of the pedestal and underside of the sink to level the sink rather than using traditional methods of small wedged shaped pieces of wood.
Tip #8 With the sink leveled and positioned properly, mark the mounting hole locations. The sink will attach to the wall and the support cleat in one of three ways: It will hang on a bracket attached to the cleat, it will be fastened to the cleat with hanger bolts, or it will use both. Whichever method is used, mark through the mounting holes of the sink onto the wall. On many sinks, the pedestal is secured to the floor through a hole in its base – mark this hole location now.
Tip #9 Next, drill the recommended-sized holes for the screws or bolts that attach the sink to the wall. Make sure to hit the brace that was installed earlier. Before installing the pedestal and sink and when the pedestal is designed to attach to the floor – drill this hole now.
Tip #10 Now it is time to install the hanger bolts or bracket that will support the sink. Brackets typically bolt directly to the wall (and to the brace behind the wall covering). The simplest way to install hanger bolts is to drive them in with a socket wrench. Most manufacturers will define the maximum distance the bolt can protrude from the wall. Generally it will be 1-inch, depending on the design of the pedestal sink.
Installing A Pedestal Sink Part II continues tomorrow with installing the shut-off valves, installing the faucet and drain and will continue from today’s preparation tips through completion of the installation connecting the supply and waste lines.
There’s A Reason They Call Us Mr.™
Mr. Rooter is a plumbing specialist in the Pittsburgh greater area that understands the importance of not only skilled work, but also creating a relationship with their clients. The company lives and practices a Code of Values that emanate from respect, integrity, customer focus, and having fun. Treating others with the respect they deserve, listening with the intent to understand what is being said, and acknowledging the importance of the words in accordance with the speaker are just as important as fixing the leak, or addressing any issue involving plumbing. With a strong focus on customer loyalty, Mr. Rooter knows that integrity means doing a job well, and maintaining the clients trust at the same time. For more information, please visit http://www.rooter2.com.
Debra Santavicca, PR, SMM, WebIT
Mr Rooter Media Center
Mr Rooter Tip Of The Day