Caribbean Living on Panama's Forgotten Coast--InternationalLiving.com
Along a secret stretch of Panama's Caribbean coast almost nobody has heard of, the water is warm, the beaches are calling, and adventuresome expats have begun to flock--largely under the radar. The archipelago of Panama's Bocas del Toro province may attract the limelight, but a new report from the editors at International Living explores a good-value stretch of Panama's lesser-known Caribbean coastline worth the attention of anybody looking for a low cost, dramatically beautiful escape outside the hurricane zone.
BALTIMORE, June 22, 2021 /PRNewswire-PRWeb/ -- Much has been written about the Pacific side of Panama, and deservedly so. But it has been at the expense of Panama's vibrant, yet laidback Caribbean side, which sits below the hurricane zone.
According to the editors of International Living, the historic town of Portobelo is a prime example of an overlooked gem. Located in Colon province in the northern part of the isthmus that is Panama, Portobelo is lush with forests, rivers, beaches, and coral reefs side by side with ancient Spanish forts and ruins dating back to when the town was the greatest Spanish port in Central America.
Portobelo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a treasure trove for history buffs. It is the site of the relics of two stone fortresses in use during a period of thriving sea trade, from the 16th to 18th centuries. Then, seagoing vessels carried gold from Peru and treasures from Asia to this area, where mules carried the precious cargo to Panama City.
"If you'd asked me about Portobelo five years ago, I would've started with a list of caveats," says Jessica Ramesch, IL Panama Correspondent.
"Now, a long list of positive, exciting developments come to mind first. Over the past year alone I've met expats of all ages and walks of life here. Single women like me, and single guys, too. I've talked to people who are straight, gay, white, black… people in their 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s, and just hitting 70, too.
"And it's a very international crowd. Yet they all have something in common. They're independent, easygoing types. You'd have to be. This region has its challenges."
"We know some areas are lacking," says New Orleans expat Rosalind Baitel, who splits her time between Portobelo and Panama City. "Internet can cost a bit more here than in the city, and speeds are up and down.
"But we have a great, close-knit community. Everyone helps everyone."
Roz's husband Allan is from the province of Colón and a director of Linton Bay, a new marina that's already full of sailboats, yachts, and catamarans. They estimate as many as 150 vessels (around 350 people) were steered to shelter in this region during the pandemic, the majority at the Linton Bay marina.
Life here could get expensive, Ramesch says, especially if you're eating out a lot. And living on a boat is a whole other kettle of fish. "Running your boat is a full-time job," says Alex, 55, who has spent many years on this coast. He and wife Carla Sazunic Dorsey, 45, live on a 42-foot Westsail—an old-school sailing boat, as Alex likes to say. "It's not all sitting under palm trees, sipping umbrella drinks." Yes, there are days like that… but there are also days spent covered in grease, fixing things.
In his blog, Projectbluesphere.com, Alex explains how to be a minimalist sailor. "We live 100% off-grid, on solar power, and we don't burn fossil fuels much," he says. "We make as much as we can… bread, pasta, tofu, cheese, wine…and buy as little packaged food as possible. We pay $185 a year for a cruising permit, and we're not overpoliced. In the States they were always coming onboard, it could be really hard sometimes. Here, it's more relaxed."
Jason Ashcroft, another Portobelo resident, found a creative way to save on housing. A photographer and naturalist who offers jungle wildlife tours, Jason was offered free lodging at a little hotel if he would keep an eye on it at night. Later he and his girlfriend—they met in Portobelo— moved to a large property with a house for sale. He takes care of maintenance in exchange for discounts on rent.
"It's a bit of a hike, but I like to be in the jungle. My neighbors are monkeys, sloths, and toucans. The house has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a loft, and a nice terrace. It looks out over the forest, and I can see the ocean and enjoy the sunset. We have local fruit planted all over the property, so whenever we're bored we go see what's ripe. We compete with the monkeys for mango and avocado," he jokes. "But the way I see it, it's all theirs anyway.
"I've seen many places rent for about $500 a month here. You might find waterfront to be more expensive," Jason says. But if you have your own vehicle, you can access cheaper properties that aren't right in town or along the main road. "I'd say anybody could survive out here with $1,000 a month."
"The province gets a bad rap because of its capital city, also named Colón," says Ramesch. "But outside of that one permanently down-on-its-luck city you'll find one of the most underappreciated rainforest districts in the Caribbean."
Portobelo's outlook is positive, Ramesch argues, thanks in large part to the expats and locals who are investing their time and money here, and who want to make it better.
"Property and business owners like Rosalind, are actively working to improve things. In the past year, they have lobbied for better water and trash handling and created a chamber of commerce for the region."
"If you are looking for an undiscovered spot, and you're willing to see beyond the challenges on the surface and get to know Portobelo—the land, the people—the rewards of this little-known Caribbean escape will be sweet."
The full report can be found, here: Caribbean Living on Panama's Forgotten Coast
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